As to whether its worth fixing, depends on how much you want to spend, whether you use the compressor a lot so youll miss it if you dont have one, and of course, what is actually wrong with it. I hope some folks that have had the same problem can add their thoughts. I need a manifold part # E101627..all sites say discontinued. If I let all the air out of it it will come on and run, but after it pressures up and turns off, it will do the same thing trying to come back on. Id be looking at the cylinder / piston too just to see whats what inside. Hi Brandon. I just observed the unloader valve while the motor would not run and tank pressure at about 75psi. I need a compressor for this kobalt compressor model # 215921 . That pressure switch looks like it should have an unloader tube entering the bottom plugged port. When I browse for replacement 60 gallon compressor tanks I see money. If you tell me at what pressure the compressor kicks off when you hold the PRV, I should be able to determine if the issue is the switch or the PRV, but right now, I cannot. The compressor will work find regardless of what the new manifold looks like or how you cobbled it in, as long as it functions in a similar fashion to the original. Now the compressor seems to work fine. Do i need to wire the aftermarket switch in or can i use the original one. Having the same symptoms that I described earlier. I cannot find any bolt head with a hole in it like Brandon found in his December 6 comment. I never got my mic out to check the new one but it threaded right in. Other than that, have a look at this page, read the pages that apply, and then add a comment with what you found when you checked, please. Update from Mark: by the way there sending me a motor etc .should be fun. I only run it at 75lb I never run it any higher than that for what I use it for. How do I change them? For now I took the cap, valve and spring off of the new one like the one pictured below and inserted in the old body. So, empty tank and the compressor starts and runs, air in the tank, and the compressor will not start, is that right? I am thinking that it is the run capacitor is going bad? Its about a 4 run. it is rated for 150 psi. WellI dont have a tool that can get in to the gap between the knob and the ring to tighten it. I can fill the tank with air just fine but when I attach the hose to the unit it will knock and not fill when more air is needed. Is the smell a burning belt, or is it coming off the motor? I have Kobalt Model# 3332643.Air is leaking from around my air pressure regulator knob.I have had it since about December I mostly use it to fill tires / to dust my PC.Planned on eventually getting some air tools.. but havent yet.I usually have the tool pressure at about 90 psi. It is a replacement for an old horizontal compressor that I had below my workbench. You have put a wrench on the flats and tried to tighten down the innards, have you? Id make sure I have a PRV on the Craftsman tank with a cracking pressure of 135 PSI or so. Option? I have taken the knob off and replaced the oring on the bottom of the knob assembly. Master Tool Repair sells replacement parts for Husky and Workforce products that we obtain I need the regulator housing and knob for my Kobalt 20 gal model 0332041. Brian, please visit: http://fix-my-compressor.com/air-compressor-problems-and-fixes/ and scroll down to the section about compressor starting and stopping section. All Rights Reserved. I still believe it to be because the motor is getting too hot and to me the next thing on the check list is the start capacitor.

They had their own service department and I could order just about any replacement part on-line. While unloading from my pickup the compressor fell on the head assembly cover and I broke and bent a few heat sink fins and broke out the area that the air filter screws into. I opened up the cover and noticed it looks like the piston ring is deformed or splitting. Get the cover off, and see where the wire from the ON/OFF switch goes. Can anyone please help, i was draining our 80 gallon compressor and the piece that screws on the screw came off and now i cannot find it. I have a Kobalt 30 gallon, model #LLA1683066, and I need the oil level sight glass. Thoughts?? I would try to thread that one up. This unit looks like its seen a lot of use. Like all department stores or big box stores, the stores do not make their own house brand products. If you Google Kobalt compressors it brings you to the Lowes website, since this is Lowes house brand. Well, a plug is cheap. Looking for the 3 prong reed air intake valve as one of the prongs broke on mine. Then blows a breaker. I checked and cleaned the valves and their mating surfaces, which were a little grimy but appeared to be sealing. Good luck with getting an answer from Lowes. So, we cannot identify the pressure switch for you yet. Ill keep you updated. Having said all that, for light use, no worries. Jamie, what are the specs on this Kobalt compressor. Thank you for answering! I plan on getting a set soon just for that so I will let you know if that is what it is in case someone else asks, thank you. Please provide a bit more info.

It is supposed to pump up to 150 lbs but does not make it. So is it the pressure switch or the PRV? I replaced the tank check valve, which eliminated the super long unload times, but it still wont unload for at least 3 minutes. If the tank pressure is higher than the 75 PSI youve got the regulator set for, and air is blowing up around the regulator, presumably from the regulator body and not a leak at the fittings or pipe, then I would surmise your regulator needs a new diaphragm. Sorry, without a model number of the compressor, I cannot make any recommendation, as neither of the numbers you provided result in any information on line. Ive had the Kobalt 20gal air compressor (LK20175) for a couple of years now. No part available.. then youll have to cannibalize a broken one, or make your own. Without that information its pretty difficult to help. Very odd that, considering that it is necessary to purchase both the motor and pump as a single assembly. Mine has a coned end to accept a flared fitting and the pictured one is not that type. I need the manifold also. The check value started leaking constantly with every pressure up. I believe thats likely your problem getting it going with the 120 PSI load in it. Ive tried to accumulate your many posts and put them in one. It would depend on how much damage, I expect. Anyway, I need a replacement belt. kobalt 80 gallon ac getting oil in lines & when draining getting milky oil out of drain. Thanks. Yeah, I see that. I needed an upgrade as I wanted to do spray painting. Change the plug, and then use a multi-meter to follow the power to the compressor. You add a tank check valve with unloader port, a pressure switch with an integral or attached unloader, and connect the two. My compressor model # KLA 1883054. Thanks for your help and suggestions though! Would someone please advise me on the proper wiring of this switch? If you can find a used one they sell for about $100 or so. I looked at some pictures of what I believe to be your compressor, but could not see where the check valve was. While I was messing with that, I noticed the compressor didnt shut off at 150 psi like it should so I replaced the pressure switch. Yes, but I ordered the new check valve after installed the pump made a weird noise, but when I put the old tank check valve back pump run good no weird noise but air leaking. Recently it started overheating. I noticed lately that it was not reaching max. Am I correct in understanding that the regulator fits in the silver piece at the bottom of your image, and the regulator gauge is not attached to the regulator but added to the cover, and plumbed from the regulator, or is the regulator gauge still attached to the regulator, but sticks up out of the hole in the cover you have removed? I thought about replacing the whole line but then Ive also gotta replace the elbow for the line entering the pump (because the thread size is the same on both ends of the line which again, seem to be non-standard) and Id have to buy a tube bending tool which I dont have to do it all right. But if it kicks on and theres any air above 3o pounds it slaves and blows a breaker. Cheers. I did that another compressor of mine. Thanks for that Chris. Since I cannot see under the cover, and have not been able to find a photo showing me detail, I wonder about the unloader. It is my experience that pulling a compressor pump apart can damage the pump gaskets. Lowes tell me I have to go into the store to order the parts. This is a good compressor other than how LOUD it is. Best I can suggest is if you can get one of the bolts then visit an industrial hardware outfit and ask them to identify the thread and supply another like it, though maybe take it up a notch in terms of bolt strength. Not using an extension cord? IF that hole has become blocked, that might be the source of the squeal, and if it cannot bleed air properly, may overload the motor on startup and shuts down the compressor. Do my symptoms and description sound like a bad check valve? It gets light to moderate use. Does that help? Some switches have two adjustment nuts for high and low, others have one that adjust the range of both cut in and cut out at the same time. RFM, that part should be available at Lowes where this brand of compressor is sold. It has basically been used to inflate tires. The closest match was a 90* right valve which I will retrofit Hopefully. The check valve that came in mine, which appears identical to the one in yours, measures 0.64.

Or, you can make up your own using brass fittings from a hardware store, getting rid of the original cast manifold completely. Care to share your thoughts on them? I have kobolt model number 0320541 and the first time using it the bolt in the compression cylinder sheared off were can i get another bolt. I have been searching around and it looks like Sanbor is the manufacturer of this unit and Powermate is compatible as well. Michael, Im not sure to what model Kobalt you are referring. With load it would be higher. Fortunately, as compared to the cost of a new compressor with a 3.5 HP motor and pump, the tank becomes proportionally less expensive. Is this the one you have? What is my problem? Yes I am looking a compressor pump can you let me know the price of it please. Interesting, mine did the same thing blew the end cap off of the check valve. They are available, and may actually save money over buying a new one, if you could find it. Dont know what model of Kobalt you have, so cannot check at this time. Attached is a picture. Thats something I miss about Sears. Alex, when you lightly hold the PRV am I to understand that you are pushing in on the piston on the end, and preventing the PRV from opening, and when you do that, the tank pressure builds to what pressure, please?