This has decreased its footprint, but it has also made it somewhat difficult to get to the on/off switch. Im not encouraging you to do this, only showing you what I did. The other difference is the addition of the handy box with the 240-volt receptacle. Admittedly, doing so would have made things a little simpler, as I could have run the cord directly inside the junction box. Youre also right that I only used two of the three available poles on the contactor.
I ordered one and when it arrived plugged in according to the directions.
My remote switch is up and running, just waiting for my Jet DC650BK to arrive (switching to 230v). I went to my local electrical supply specialists, Home Depot, a local plumbing supply place that also carries a lot of electrical stuff, and a local general store. When the wireless remote activates the 120-volt circuit, this fires off the contactor and starts the dust collector.
I really appreciate you taking the time to comment here. Next I started to run some wiring. A good example of this would be the thermostat in your house. You are correct, by below, I meant at the base of the contactor, not the lower part of the photo. It was about $60 with tax and shipping, by far the cheapest commercial option, so I thought I would give it a try. If so, do you put the head of the screw inside or outside? You touch this all the time, and if it shorts. FYI, I am replacing the 30micron filter with a 1micron Shaker Felt Dust Collection Bag.
Signup for our newsletter and get the 173 Best Homemade Tools eBook free! And wouldnt that leave a bump on the back of the box? My first choice to accomplish this was to buy a commercially available wireless remote switch. Mine has switches for three circuits.
I then tried to turn it off. I pressed the on button nothing. If I recall correctly, I just put a washer head wood screw through the contactor, through the housing box, and into the plywood behind. Dumb question but how do you mount the contactor to the box? You just made this post much better for anyone who comes along and reads it later.
Thanks for commenting and clarifying the wiring.
A Woodworking and Hand Tool Restoration Blog, How to Set-up A Wireless Remote Control Switch For Your Wood Shop Dust Collector, How to Make Blast Gates for Your Woodworking Shop Dust Collection System, How To Make Brackets to Hang PVC Pipe for Woodworking Shop Dust Collection System, Shop-Built Wireless Dust Collector Remote, Electrical Junction Box $ 9.00, 1/2 Cord Grips (Nylon grommets) 2@ $1.92 $ 3.84, 14/3 wire 5 feet @ $0.63/ft $ 3.15, 12/3 wire 5 feet @ $0.97/ft $ 4.85, 120V 15A Plug $ 3.97, 250V 20A Plug $ 5.19, Handy Box $ 0.68, Handy Box Face Plate $ 0.68, 250V 20A Receptacle $ 4.97, Offset Nipple $ 2.05, Conduit LockNuts $ 0.78.
At the time I did this, a 240v remote switch capable of the amperage that my 2hp dust collector draws was either not easily available or too expensive. So if I have it right, and for the benefit of those few who are as dull as me: the 240v line in is connected to T1 and T2 contacts at the bottom of the photo I am in the process of wiring my dust collector system following your example. Mine has a much heavier duty contactor.
It is primarily used to allow a low power circuit to activate a much more powerful one. I contacted Grizzly and arranged to send the unit back. Thanks for your comments. I didnt know what a contactor was till I read your article. These remote switches will easily handle low amperage loadsespecially onresistive circuits (i.e.
Found a two pole, 120v coil contactor at Carolina Supply and the rest of the parts I needed at Home Depot and Lowes. This means it can handle motors of up to 5 horse power.
I just realized that the picture below doesnt show it very well, but it attaches down low where you cant see it, not to the top screws. I tested the system before plugging in the dust collector to the new outlet. I tried this several times, from various location in the shop, even with the remote 12-inches from the switch, and the situation never improved. Instead, I added a handy box that will house a 250-volt receptacle. If you would like to see all of my blog posts about installing my dust collection system, you can find them here: You description of the setup with the contactor is exactly what I need except that I cant quite make out how the contactor is wired.
DIY Dust Collector Remote Switch - comment on how to build a Dust Collector Remote Switch - 0 comments. the 240v line out is connected to L1 and L2 shown at the top of the photo. I did this 18 months ago, so just went back to review it. Washer head screws used to install the junction box. This turns on your heater or air-conditioner. I hung the remote on my bandsaw which is in the center of my shop.
The 240-volt wall receptacle is above the shelf and the the 240-volt line in plugs in there. Thank you.
Even were this not the case, I would still like to add a wireless remote, as it will make the system much easier to use.
All in all, Im very happy with this project and Im convinced it is way better than a commercial 240-volt remote. In my case they are labled A1 abd A2. I use the first with the contactor that drives the dust collector and the second for the air cleaner, which is 120v and does not need a contactor, and I use the third for whatever might be useful like a light.
You said it perfectly and I dont disagree with a single thing you said. Way more than I currently need, but unlikely to wear out, and it has plenty of capacityif I ever upgrade the dust collector.
I have a back ground in electonics and grasped your theory right away. However, remote switches that will handle 240-voltcurrent, at higher amperages, and on inductive loads (i.e. Why not control the air-conditioner directly? The cost of the three outlet set was still very cheap. I think the low power remove paired to a contactor is a much better option. dust switch vacuum vac festool autoswitch toolmonger remote pharmacy tramadol
If you could identify the connection by the lables (L1, L2, L3 and T1, T2, T3) that would be very helpful indeed. Last thing before we get started! I cant see in the pictures where the various wires are attached. The electrical parts that I purchased to build a remote control system for the dust collector. There are a few differences in my system from the one I linked to earlier. Or do you just account for that with your plywood backer? the 120 \v line is connected to the lugs near the base of the contactor.
I didnt go driving all around town just to get these parts. Youre welcome, Im glad that you found the post helpful. I was thinking that you were referring to the contacts at the bottom of the photo and that clearly is intended for the 240 volt line in. Better yet hire someone. When buying the remote switch you might consider getting one that has multiple device capabilities. Thanks again for the idea. Before I get started, I suppose I should give a little explanation of what this system is supposed to do. switc lr110
But, do you want 240-volt, 50A power running to your thermostat? Proceed at your peril! On about the tenth attempt the dust collector finally turned on. It obviously need to stay dry but cold temperatures is not an issue given that we can have very cold winters in Canada where I live.
So, in my case, Im going to use a cheap 110-volt wireless remote switch to send an electrical signal to an appropriate sized contactor. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Im doing this with mine.
This contactor then closes the switch on a much higher power 240-volt high amperage circuit. Drilling some mounting holes at the drill press. You can see his article here: Shop-Built Wireless Dust Collector Remote.
I suppose that I could have used the third pole to switch the neutral line, but didnt think that made any sense. My system uses a low amperage 120v circuit to turn on/off a higher amperage 240v circuit. The 120-volt line comes in the top cord grip and attaches to the contactor. With the collector in the garage I can have an outlet for my vacuum hose there but turn the collector on or off while in the garage even though the switch is in my basement. The original poster, Dominic Greco from Two Guys In A Garage Toolworks, also wrote a great article on his website showing the steps he took to install this system. The 240-volt line comes in and attached to the bottom screws on the contactor. A little cheaper than store bought and a whole lot beefier. Granted, I paid a lot more money for itthan others available on amazon, but I think this one should give me many years of use. I then drilled these at the drill press. On a single phase, 240 volt circuit, it will handle 30 amps of inductive load.
If you buy a 24-volt controlled contactor, youre going to fry it. All of the grounds were linked together and a ground run to the box itself. Total Spent: $ 87.68 (plus the taxman).
Constructed from an appliance-grade contactor, a 24-volt transformer, and 3- and 4-way switches. Yes, I suppose that this could be done that way. I just wired the input and output for those lines together with a wire nut.
Is that a problem? I only switched the two hot lines. I attached the junction box to the plywood using washer-head screws. Heres the remote that I bought from Amazon: The contactor that I purchased from my local electrical supply specialist is heavy-duty. Instead of asking for a replacement, I decided to build my own. I dont see why you couldnt use it to turn on/off a higher amperage 120v circuit. I purchased the 120-volt remote from Amazon. The top screws on the contactor are the line out to the receptacle.
Essentially, one electrical circuit is used to switch on/off another separate circuit. Get 500+ tool plans, full site access, and more. I hesitated to use the word bang as it is not firecracker loud, but it is definitely more than a click. Another advantage of this system is that because the remote control works through walls I was able to put my dust collector in the garage. I did this over the course of a week while I was out running other errands.
But first a little background. I also save precious space. dust separator cyclone lid stage collector systems
Mydust collector has bee disassembled andmounted to a shelf on the wall. I pressed again, and again, and again. I still need to tidy up the wires a little and Ill probably use cable ties to do so. In this example, a 24-volt low-power wire runs from your thermostat to either your air conditioner or furnace. Another major advantage of having the collector placed in a remote location is that the noise in my shop to a whisper. That said, the commercially available 120v remote switches are cheap enough that its probably a waste of time to do all this for a 120v tool. I agree completely.
Im not an electrician. I connected the handy box to the junction box using an offset nipple and some locknuts. If it is a simple on/off switch that you can leave in the on position, youre in business. So Im using only one side of the contactor I bought, and no tripped breakers. If it has a magnetic switch, you are going to have to do some googling to see how you can bypass it. You may ask yourself, why all this hassle? I plugged the dust collector in and tested everything once more, and it works great. I was able to off-set some of this extra cost by shopping around for the other parts and getting a pretty good deal on them. The 120v line appears to be connected to the lugs below the terminals shown at the top of the picture. Mine has been working flawlessly for three years.
A big thank you goes out to Dominic Greco for the inspiration to set my remote system up this way. Learn how your comment data is processed. I used cord grips (nylon grommets) where the wire went through the wall of the junction box. Click here for 27 plans for dust collectors, 40 Plans for Homemade Sanders: Disc, Drum, Spindle, and Thickness Sanders, Definition of kilogram, amp, and kelvin set to change forever, Roubo's Winding Sticks - 18th Century Design, Crane tips over while lifting bulldozer - GIF. Dont buy it Its crap! Graham, Can this be altered to accommodate a 110v 1.5hp dust collector.
cyclone grizzly collector phase features dust hp industrial I am building one of these similar to yours. I put the contactor in the junction box and marked where holes were needed (you can just see the black dots below).
That is what your description states but I was not understanding what below meant.
Graham.
light bulbs). The cord from the dust collector plugs into the new 240-volt receptacle in the handy box.
If this makes you nervous, dont do it. Thanks for a great article. The DC takes needs 20 amps and I cant find a remote for more than fifteen unless I buy the ready made and I have heard bad things about them. All I have in the shop is a cyclone.
So, with all that out of the way, lets get started.
When the thermostat senses that it needs to turn on the air-conditioning or heat, it sends a 24-volt signal to a contactor. I dont know what an electrician would say about that, but it has been working well for me. If I am still wrong, please let me know so I dont mislead others. I did not want to cut the plug off the dust collector cord.
This will turn on and off the much more powerful 240-volt circuit that goes to the dust collector. This means that a 120-volt and a 240-volt wall outlet are both needed in the area where the system in installed. In fact, you will often see these sold as Christmas light remotes. Since this is in the middle of my shop, its never far out of reach.
You guessed it, nothing happened.
I decided to build my own remote system after reading a thread on Woodnet.net. I found that Grizzly had a newer model 240V Dust Collection Remote. I went to a few stores locally to get the best prices on all the relevant parts. When I mounted my dust collector to the wall, I used a plywood backer to support the brackets.
The commercially available ones are limited in power or very expensive. When buying a contactor, make sure you get one that takes a 120-volt signal.
Thanks! Being able to turn on the dust collector and the air cleaner at the same time is convenient and thus actually encourages me to use it. Homemade dust collector remote switch intended to enable the ground-level system to be started from an attic workshop. 120-voltremote switches are a dime a dozen and can be found easily. Electricity is no joke. 1This page shows how I wired up my wood-shop dust collector to work with a wireless remote switch. When you activate the remote, your hear a significant SNAP as the contactor activates.
Do you just use regular 8-32 screws/nuts/washers/lock washers? A contactor is an electrically controlled switch. I think I just figured out why I was confused. After about five attempts the collector finally turned off. I punched out three of the 1/2 knockouts (2 on one side and one on the other).
T3 and L3 are not used as this is a three pole contactor but only two poles are being used for a single phase motor. Thanks Jonathan for the quick response and confirmation of my intended clarifications. If youre not sure if this meets code for your area, check. The two main components are a 110v wireless remote (Christmas light) switch and a contactor.